THOSE of us who live in Dorset and Somerset are so lucky. Not only do we live in one of the most beautiful areas of the country – relatively unspoiled, too – but we live in part of the richest food regions. The south west is justly famed for its traditional local produce – apples, cider, cheese, cream, pasture-based livestock – but it also has a well-deserved reputation for the diversity, quality and number of food and drink retailers and hospitality businesses.
A new book, published in early November, focuses on a small part of this vibrant food scene. Let’s Eat – Bruton and Beyond, A Guide for Food Explorers offers a selection of shops, pubs, restaurants, farm shops and more, selected by Sally and Stewart Walton, who moved to Bruton four years ago.
Stewart is a watercolour artist who particularly enjoys painting architecture and the book is full of his charming illustrations, which capture the essence and character of buildings grand and modest, old and new, in Bruton, Castle Cary and Wincanton and some of the surrounding villages.
Sally and Stewart, who have a shared passion for food, came up with the idea of using his paintings to illustrate a book about some of the places they love to visit, to eat, drink or buy local produce. Many of the places they feature will be familiar to the people who live there, but some are off the beaten track, an invitation to explore for both local residents and visitors.
From pubs and restaurants to farm shops, vineyards and orchards, there is a strong sense of pride in local produce and the area, which comes through in the text, as the authors encouraged the producers, chefs and retailers to talk about themselves and their food and drink.
Some also contributed recipes and seasonal tips – nettle soup from The Three Horseshoes at Batcombe, beef ragu from Da Costa at Hauser & Wirth, clotted cream parfait from the Montague Inn at Shepton Montague, English pecorino and fennel-top pesto from Carolyn Hopkins of The Truckle Truck, a 1969 converted Citroen van that comes to Wincanton Marketplace on Fridays … and many more.
At the back there is a select list of Food Heroes, including both Charles Dowding, the no-dig gardening guru, and his brother, organic apple grower and cider-maker Oliver, and Keen’s Dairy, where George Keen and his son James continue a 130-year tradition of producing some of the world’s finest (unpasteurised) farmhouse Cheddar cheese.
We could all add our own favourites to the list – in addition to Lovington Bakery and Coles Yard (with one of the best greengrocers in the region) in Wincanton, I would include Coles Butchers in the High St, and many cheese-lovers would add Montgomery’s to the included Keen’s and Westcombe, completing what we call the Cheddar magic circle.
Here is one more recipe suggestion, from Claudia, of Cole’s Yard: “Anything made with love and thought for who you are cooking for … including yourself.”
Let’s Eat – Bruton and Beyond was launched at Hauser & Wirth’s gallery and shop in Bruton High St.